Hyundai India Couture Week review: Hits and misses from the runway

What stood out

Manish Malhotra’s first-ever couture party was certainly the vertex of Hyundai India Couture Week 2025. The fact that he got some of his most iconic pieces over the years on display made us realise that Indian couturiers should preserve their most celebrated designs for posterity. And to have a global supermodel like Alessandra Ambrosio walk the ramp for him was also quite a flex. Not to forget the happening party that had celebrities partying alongside the guests including the likes of Tamannaah Bhatia, Shalini Passi and more. It was also for the first time an Indian brand presented a collection following the passing of its designer; a fresh chapter for both Rohit Bal Couture and the country’s fashion sphere.

Design highlights

Apart from the predictable lehenga cholis and sherwanis popping up on the runway, some remarkable pieces were a sight to sore eyes. Rimzim Dadu reimagined the Banjara craft. Ambi motifs found a new interpretation through metal techniques in her designs. JJ Valaya celebrated 33 years in fashion with a spectacular grand finale, and the mini veils were the biggest trends for the brides that emerged from his show. A cape embellished with real jasmine flowers during Rohit Bal’s show caught everyone’s attention, Tarun Tahiliani’s flapper girl moment left the fashion aficionados asking for more and Rahul Mishra’s gravity-defying couture pieces left the onlookers swooning.

3. What was missing?

Inclusivity was abysmal. The only designer to have models of different body types, age groups and ethnicities walk the ramp was by Aisha Rao. Why inclusion is a mere tokenism when it comes to Indian designers is also a matter of contention. What stops the designers from casting more inclusive faces on the ramp for couture shows is a question we would like to put across.

Focus on set design

Set designers like Aaquib Wani and Sumant Jayakrishnan created visually stunning sets, and the couturiers were more invested in making their sets look grander and larger-than-life. After all a good set will always help in capturing the most intriguing pictures and also tell the story behind the collection.

Why do celebrity showstoppers pick the most predictable pieces for their walk

Despite having stunningly gorgeous pieces as part of the collection, celebrity showstoppers often pick the most basic and predictable looks for their runway walk. Why is it that they are scared to wear what the models showcase on the ramp? Be it Sara Ali Khan’s basic lehenga moment at Aisha Rao’s show or Tara Sutaria’s banal corset with lehenga look, we wish to see these celebrities push the fashion boundaries when it comes to picking their showstopper outfits.