High fashion, on loan: Rama Duwaji’s fashion politics
Power dressing has long been tied with customisation and ownership, where the higher the price tag, the more authority the look is presumed to command. But the new generation is quietly disrupting this idea, with the new Gen Z First Lady of New York, Rama Duwaji, emerging as its torchbearer.
On the first day of 2026, as Zohran Mamdani was sworn in as the city’s first South Asian and Muslim Mayor, all eyes were on his wife, Syrian-American artist, Rama Duwaji. Instead of buying a closet full of expensive new clothes, she chose to borrow and rent her outfits. This move has turned the tradition of power dressing on its head.
Style on rent
The most interesting thing about Duwaji’s look was a small note in the fashion credits: “On loan.” For her first appearance at the midnight ceremony in an old subway station, she wore a vintage wool coat by Balenciaga, which she rented from the Albright Fashion Library, and finished the look with borrowed shorts from The Frankie Shop and vintage earrings.
However, she briefly found herself under scrutiny for wearing Miista Shelley boots, which retail for $630 (around ₹56,800), before it was later clarified that those, too, were borrowed.
Her stylist, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, explained on her Substack newsletter, “Thrifting is something Rama does often; so, renting second-life fashion felt like the most authentic way to approach a moment of this magnitude.”
Closet scrutiny
Rama’s choices weren’t just about thrifting or saving money; it was a rather strategic move to dodge public scrutiny. For example, in 2020, people attacked US Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez for wearing a designer outfit on a magazine cover. Before her, US First Lady Michelle Obama was often judged for mixing cheap brands with expensive ones, and US First Last Melania Trump’s wardrobe is still closely inspected.
By being open about renting, Duwaji stopped the critics before they could start. Stylist Bharat Luthra notes, “You cannot call someone out of touch for wearing a luxury coat if they are borrowing it to support circular fashion.”
Supporting independent voices
Both the Mayor and the First Lady of NYC use their clothes as a narrative to represent their values. For the swearing-in ceremony, Zohran wore a gold-embroidered tie, custom–made from Assam’s eri silk from label Kartik Research.
For the public ceremony, Rama wore a brown coat by Renaissance Renaissance, a brand founded by Lebanese designer Cynthia Merhej.
By wearing these brands, Rama is using her new platform to help small businesses. One designer she wore recently, Zeid Hijazi, reflected that seeing a First Lady in his clothes made him feel like there is finally space for Middle Eastern creators in the global fashion world.
What designers and influencers think
An ode to responsible sourcing
Kartik Kumra, founder of Kartik Research, notes that circularity only works “if consumption habits change.” “What we can do from our side is to use responsibly sourced materials, include artisans in the supply chain, and try to focus on silhouettes that last and aren’t just trend-focused,” he adds.
Power of craft over consumption
Rahul Mishra, founder of the brand by his name, notes, “When a public figure chooses an archival or vintage piece, it sends a powerful message — that clothing doesn’t have to be new to feel meaningful. It shows respect for the time, skill, and craft that went into making the garment. I believe slowness in fashion means creating clothes that last, that can be worn again and again, and even passed on. In that way, choosing from the archive isn’t about looking back, it’s about valuing longevity over excess, and treating fashion as something to cherish, not discard.”
Cultivating a connection with what we wear
Isha Jajodia, founder-creative director of Roseroom, says, “Choosing archival, vintage, or borrowed clothing, it shifts the narrative. These choices reinforce that fashion is to be cherished, re-worn, and passed on. It reminds us that clothing carries memory, and emotional value. Circularity begins when we start seeing garments as stories, not disposables.”
Making ethical choices in the spotlight
Divya Saini, creative director of Bodements, shares, “I see borrowing clothes as one of the most honest expressions of circular fashion. It shifts the focus from ownership to intention. Clothing has always travelled through families, communities, and generations, long before sustainability became a buzzword. Circular fashion, to me, isn’t only about recycling or repurposing; it’s about extending the life of what already exists, respecting the hands and histories behind garments, and making conscious choices even in moments of visibility.”
Rental fashion is finally going mainstream
Viren H Shah, fashion influencer, notes, “People are often iffy about renting clothes because of hygiene, but, I like to think of it as borrowing a piece from a family member or close friend. I’ve seen so many new rental-wear companies pop up in the last few years.”
Fashion is meant to have longevity
Meghna Goyal, founder of Summer Away explains, “It normalises the idea that your style doesn’t come from or is formed by constant consumption. It reinforces the idea of buying less, choosing well, and building wardrobes meant to be worn again and again. It’s a reminder that fashion is meant to have longevity and that repeating clothes should feel intentional and not something to be embarrassed of.”
