Complete guide to retinoids: When to start and introduce it in your skincare routine, based on skin type | Health

In an interview with HT, Dr Sonali Kohli, Consultant, Dermatology at Sir HN Reliance Foundation Hospital delved into the basics of retinoids, explaining in-depth, all the basics and how one should introduce it to their skincare routine based on their skin type.

She said, “In the ever-changing world of skincare, few products have received as much scientific support and professional applause as retinoids. Whether eradicating signs of ageing or managing acne, these derivatives of vitamin A have emerged as powerhouse ingredients.” She added that understanding retinoids is important before attempting to introduce them to the skincare routine.

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Understanding the basics

First, it’s essential to understand the components of retinol. Dr Kohli said, “Retinoids are a family of vitamin A derivatives, with retinol being the most recognized over-the-counter formulation. Although prescription strength tretinoin is the strongest type, several retinoid formulations range in strength as well as benefit, making them versatile for a variety of skin types.”

Right time to start

The biggest question most skincare enthusiasts ponder is when to start using retinol and at what age it should be introduced. Dr Kohli addressed this concern and highlighted bigger issues that need to be considered first.

She said, “The question is not only about age, but about skin readiness and concerns. Generally, as a dermatologist, I recommend initiating retinoids in your mid-20s for preventive anti-aging benefits. However, younger individuals who suffer from acne can start earlier with professional guidance.”

Dr Kohli listed the indicators to start retinoids:

• Early signs of photo-aging.
• Persistent acne concerns.
• Uneven skin texture.
• Hyperpigmentation issues.
• Prevention-focused skincare goals.

How to introduce

Every individual has a unique skin type that requires a specific approach and products for optimal results. Tailoring the introduction of retinoids based on your skin type helps in acclimating the skin gradually and minimizing potential irritation.

Dr Kohli shared the approach for each skin type:

Sensitive Skin

• Begin with the mildest formulations: Start with retinyl palmitate or low-strength retinol (0.01-0.03%).
• Apply twice a week at first.
• Use it over moisturizer.
• Adjustment period is longer: 8-12 weeks.

Dry Skin

• Hydrate and introduce retinoids.
• Use cream-based retinol formulation.
• Begin with 0.025%.
• Apply with hydrating serums.
• Moisturize skin before applying.

Oily/Combination Skin

• Oily/ combination skin types can usually tolerate higher strength formulations so begin with 0.05% retinol.
• Use gel or lightweight preparations.
• Gradually increase frequency more quickly if no irritation develops.
• Observe oil production changes during adaptation.

Application guideline

As a first-timer, when applying retinol, it is important to follow the right steps to avoid irritation and ensure effective results. If you’re confused about how to apply retinol, Dr Kohli shared the following application guidelines:
1. Thoroughly clean the skin and gently blot dry.

2. Allow the skin to completely dry out for 3-5 minutes.

3. Apply a small pea-sized amount of retinoid.

4. Moisturize after 15-20 minutes of application.

Common errors

Much like any new skincare product, retinoids should be used with care when it comes to application. Other than application, one should also curb unrealistic expectations. Dr Kohli suggested being mindful of these red flag habits:

• Avoid applying to damp skin.
• Using too much product.
• Mixing with active ingredients like vitamin C or AHAs/BHAs in the same session.
• Not using sunscreen.
• Anticipating overnight miracle changes.

How do you know if retinol is working for you?

As always, there’s an expectation to see the much-anticipated transformation. While patience is non-negotiable, one can always look out for good signs. Dr Kohli shared some good progress indicators to help you know if retinoids are working for you:

• Mild flaking in the first few weeks.
• Gradual improvement in skin texture.
• More even tone after 8-12 weeks.
• Less noticeable fine lines after 12+ weeks.

How do you know retinol is NOT working for you?

Again as every skin’s requirement is different, so what may work for everyone might not even work for you. Dr Kohli highlighted some red flags to watch out for, indicating that the product may not be working for your skin:

• Persistent redness or irritation.
• Burning sensations.
• Excessive peeling.
• Sensitivity to all products.

Seasonal adjustments

Skin’s condition changes from season to season and so doe the requirements. Dr Kohli listed these special considerations to keep in mind:

• Winter adjustments: Reduce the frequency of application during the winter months.
• Summer Adjustments: Lower concentrations may be more suitable for the summer.
• Humidity: Adjust the frequency and strength based on humidity levels.
• Sun Protection: Extra caution is required regarding sun protection, as retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

Dr Kohli concluded by adding, “The journey with retinoids is highly individual. What works for one person may need adjustment for another. The key lies in patient, consistent application and careful observation of your skin’s response. When in doubt, consult with a skincare professional who can provide personalized guidance based on your specific needs and concerns.”

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Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always seek the advice of your doctor with any questions about a medical condition.